Means for making stitched openwork



Dec-26,1944 AfTURRl'sl 2,366,134

MEANS FOR MAKING STITCHED OPEN WORK Original Filed March 10, 1938 HISTToRNEY.

ment of one sort or another.

- and success, for the reason I believe, that they necessitate extensivechanges in the construction of existing standard machines or else a highdegree of specialized skill on the part of the operator in the operationof a specified attachmy purpose to herein disclosev an economical,simplified and cheap means for producing the desired stitched open work,which neither involves radical departure from existing standard sewing-machine constructions or parts, nor a high degree of specialized skillin the manipulation and operation of a peculiar specific typeofattachment.

My aforementioned Patent 2,219,460 the application for which wasco-pending herewith, de-

scribes a mechanism adjusted for ready ern-bodiment in existing standardsewing machine structure which stitches together two fabric portions andin Figure 4 of thedrawing of that patent 'the fabric portions are shownas an upper portion 29 and a lower portion 30 joined togetherwith a lineof slack stitches so as to leave a selvage .to each of said portions andto which selvages further reference will be made shortly. yMy presentinvention contemplates that these selvages be each folded back againstVits respective fabric body' portion and that the fabric pieces withtheir respective folded back selvages be separated and drawn apart atand upon the successive slack stitches and that in this procedure theportion of the lower fabric piece 38, lying to the leftof thefree endportion 24 of element 20 (reference is here had to Figure 4 of Patent2,219,460) be drawn away from the corresponding adjacent portion of theupper fabric piece 29, and down towards the bottom of the needle threadloops until the portion of fabric piece 3U rested against the bobbinthread 32 at the bottom of such loops. Since the successive loopsofneedle vthread 3| are of uniform size, such a drawing of` fabricportion 38 away from fabric vportion 29 leaves such fabric portionsuniformly lspaced apart by a distance equal to substantially `one-- halfof the length of thread in a given 1oop',1but joined at each and everysuccessive original pierce point of the needle 3 by two substantiallyequal lengths of needle thread, to Wit, theneedle side limb 3la of eachneedle thread loop and the work side limb 3Ib of such needle thread.loop,-the length of such limbs being substantially each onehalf of theentire length ofthe thread comprising the nal needle thread loop `whichleaves the free end of portion 24 of element 20.

As will be observed from an inspection of Fig,-

5, when the portions 29 and 30 of the workfare drawn apart and therespective selvages are folded back against their respective bodies, theselvage 38a will have resting against the line of fold thereof with thefabric portion 3l] the bobbin thread 32, which it will, upon bein-gfolded back, encompass, while the selvage 29a will have resting againstthe line of fold thereof with the fabric portion 29 the successivelengths of needle thread which run from and join one original piercepoint of needle 3 with thenextadjacent Accordingly, it is and succeedingoriginal pierce point of needle 3, which successive lengths of needlethread the portion 29a will encompass upon being folded back.Accordingly, it will be understood that, by providing, in the doubleneedle sewing machine shown in Figs. l and 2, suitable apparatus forseparating the selvages and folding each selvage back against its joinedfabric body portion and separating and drawing apart the fabric bodyportions with their folded back selvages, the selvages 29a and 30athereupon may be simultaneously each stitchedto their respective fabricbodies 29 and 30. When the selvage 29a has been folded back against thefabric portion 29, thereby encompassing the successive lengths of theneedle thread which join one original pierce point of needle 3 with thenext adjacent and succeeding loriginal pierce point of needle 3, and theselvage a has been folded back against the fabric portion 30, therebyencompassing the -bobbin thread 32; and the fabric portion 29, withfolded' back selvage 29a, and the fabric portion 30, with folded backselvage 30a, have been separated and drawn apart to the maximum extentpossible and the selvages 29a and `39a have been stitched respec` tivelyin the thus drawn apart position, the desired ornamental open work isformed.

Thus, observing the portion of the fabric pieces lying, in Fig. 2, tothe left of the heel of presserfoot 38, it will be observed that thefabric portions 29 and 30 are there shown `with the edges formed by thefolding over of their respective selvages 29a` and 30a uniformly andevenly separated and spaced apart over the length thereof, but joinedand connected by a continuous series of successive spaced apartsubstantially equal thread lengths transversing the open space lyingbetween the edges formed .by the folding over of the selvages aforesaid.At this point, it should be lunderstood that each'original pierce pointof needle 3, in the fabric portion 29, will be joinedI to thecorresponding original pierce point of needle 3 in the fabric portion 39by the two substantially equal lengths of thread, to wit, the limbs Elaand 3Ib of the series of loops of needle thread 3|.

Upon viewing Figures l and 2 of the drawing of my present application,Yit will be observed that I there show a presser foot 38, having openings39 and 40, inwhich a pair of needles 4l and 42 may work. Presser foot 38is carried by a conventional presser-foot rod or bar 43 and such presserfoot 38 is provided, as shown, with a single' lar to the direction oftravel of the work and,

upon rotation of wheel 46, a portion of the teeth 4l thereof will passthrough the opening 45.

Secured on element 43, I provide a collar 48, which may be moved alongelement 43 and vertically adjusted and set at a desiredI positiontherealong by any suitable holding device, such as by means of setscrews 49 as shown in Figures 1.and 3, or the like. It should beunderstood that this collar and the elements carried thereby areaccordingly susceptible of adjustment in relative vertical position withrespect to the bed plate of this machine and the work resting thereon.This collar 48, asl may be observed in Figure 3, is pr shoulder;ibyrabutmentiwitn the=V external surface vided#` witlr4 a'nv extended#portionI at which i in; turnii isv provided with 1" ai ho1`= extending:transe i verselyftherethrough',` adjacentrthewendwalulwb' i of the:`collara 48 Through said; hole= anrod-like elemfent' 5M extends. ielementi 5'4 isrofz' a= length subs-tantiallyigreater than thetransverse Widtl'r orportionrttof: collar 148. l Accordingly, element 5%mayi beiV movedji` through` the Y hole in' `portion 48th andi extendedfsout'. from. portionl 48a `to a suitable extent bythe operatoriofxthewma-l chine: `When fina1lyf1 placedindesiredposition, theelementw` iltmayr be-#'rmly fheldinadjusted position byfv any-` suitablemeans; such as;` byl the*y wingznutilset 'screwfdif orwthe like."VSecurediatt the: outermost" end'ofselement 54 listan-extension 15=Y Si);which'. preferably f is 1 integral 'withl element"` 514i and oz'slightly ylarger cross-sectional area than-1 elementf, orf-the holein'portion daxxthrough which thegelem'entqdextends; whereby `arshouli-rder, 5ta: is :provided `I atttlleV unionA between Edf-andi `element5.05:. Iti` will Abeunderstoodrithatt since =the= extensioniandi-the'shoulder 50ct areof slightly` greater diameter than thediameter of thetransf-h verseE l holeT Vrextending; through i porti on4811,. such oi` portion;` 48a; will: act `to" l limit f the .amount to'which elerrlentsl 5d and 'lllrnay` be' pushed' back t the rear;Athrough' thehole in portionl 48ml paiement misteriose-ar si into amaaike4 ele-- mentportiorr 5 I a," which` has a; center taxis" sub-lfstantiallyrperpendicular:to that-oi element 5.0iA

Element1 portion` -didrex-tends in said direction,V

thatisy along tl'ietsaidr.line;` perpendicular: to thea` `axis ofelernerrt-fL andparallel. to'` the beet` plate"` of the machine;untiinthelgeneralplaneadenedl i element portion 5| a; i l This verticaldownwardly;

extending: arm portion. 52: hasi atlowerfportion: thereof formedwithbeveled sides, that is',`suchi element portion SZQha-js :itsflower'lportion `iorrned into atv tip;` which tapers downwardly providing@` theendr portion `53, `which i isadaptedto .act as y a; y

fabric separating-finger. i

Ita will be understood, of" course,` that the cles i ment justdescribed,to wit; thatcomposedjofll thaportions5d;50,;5lla52r and, is preferablyasingle, elementi. appropriately" machined;` bentn 55 i conguredand..shaped`,.thatis, with eachbfitha meiitioned,- portions. thereof`being,AV formed .i inte-f t grallywith the next adjacent,portion.yyi` yy It` willfbe further understoodthat suchyporm` will suitably po'duce`appropriate adjustable y, sup-f.y portici-the separating finger d3."YThus, each of' to its next adjacent'portionl by-anysuitablesecuringdevice; such asbya collar, with a set-screwor'thelike'; or'theseparating finger `53 might be, supported by any other means `whichwould per:`

mit of suitable adjustableA positioning'of thesaidj 70Voftheneedlethread 3l. For this purpose, itwill .separatingfflngert;all'within` the-scope'of myv loe-understood thatthe-widthrof'theteetlhwl'l'is'u invention; Accordingly, it will be understoodthat` Idonot desire that' my invention blefdeemedf in any way limitedtothespeci'cadjustablesep;

` associes' i byvthe axiszof;thefpresserafoot;bar=43 and the`longitudinal "centen line-1 oft the" presser foot'- 38A isf.

haverlereinbeforeirdescribed asibein'gf preferable'r l but*-V ratherffdesi-res that 1 the i same beik consideredi aseilllrstrativez Aslwillfbei observedifrom an rinspectionofiliig uresi-ll andi2`; to@therightinneafch case: of the:

presser foot'f 3B, the i fabricworltpiece portions lineA of slaclirstitch-,f` are placedi` inf the positions thereisliownitherefor; withthefonefabric portionf 21N lyingrf to monen side` of?V the presser foot;38; andl they otherA fabric" portion.` 3M lying:` toV the otherf sideiof; tlierpresser-"foot 138g andlwith the selvages; 2`9ifa`n'd` 30astanding upwardly.` Thatis'; the fabrics portinst` ZSJan'di 30?y arevseparated; spreadf outandil laid upon the" bedl` platen of the``double*- needle sewingd machina with` thelsaid portionsf` extending-awayfromzz eactnotherandibeingA positionedisotliat the line=of slackistitch, the selvages= ZlStuandi 3th andi small'portioir of the fabriclof" the;` bodfes= oflf' eachlf ofE theYL portions l 291 and 351i iadiacenttth'ei line off'lclrstitcli` andi theselvages;

will-pass `under tlletpresseifoot?` 3'3". Wl'ienithefv work-shesbeen-thusjidisposed, the presser foot 38'l isl l-owerediinto -positionso thatf theneedles Ml feeding-mechanism The position of` the sepa srating- `fngerfEEF-i'srthen adjusted sothat tliesame- 30" ior?pressenfoo'tr38,y and a'lslightidistance above n thefliire of` slackstitcli joining the fabric portions` 2'!!i and 305 all? `so\that thefi`nger '53`awill` act asfaA separatingl element1v advance of thepresser f'otiiiil without coiltactingA or interfering thcree w-itlivor-x*Withw tlieztlireadlo'ops' of: the line of slack' stitch:Theiseparatinginger 53`may be` thus setex'tendinge element? 5'4lout fromportionf 482V offcollrf andflxing-the same in suitable"lioriaontalivposition by tightening" the wing4 setl screw 555; and;iurtlier,- by setting the collar 48 atrsuitableV Verticali position onthepresser-foot.`

ban liti-tand. flxing suchcollar` at such Verticaly positionl bytightening offset screwsl 49;

It willlbe riun'derstoodi that-the -separatinglnger 5%, standingoutftliusV `in advance of `the tipof` the C toe f iMoi-(presserl footgwill actto separate the selvaefes`l` 2921 and 31m as they `aresubsequently l fedg towards amb underi the presser` foot 38 f and;`

accordingly; thefseparatingeiect of: such finger will be*automaticallycontinuous;` i Y y t "Inrningfnowfagainrto Figs. 1`and2, itwill be observeditnat'onetheirightlin each of said figures;

i iabrichportionrzgiand itsselvagle'iZSa. `As'the WorkI isrfedfltowards@ andu under' the presserefootl, theiupstarrding selva'ges`29'a-and 30a are sepations, however, `neednot necessarily beintegrallyyirated byY theA separating-I nger S31-interposed" joined,` but rathentheparts or" portionsmay be, y lso constructed.andrarranged'in anyfashion that' therebetween.` Agathe -workV continues on` fromtheseparating fingers iitowardsthe presserefoot 38.5'theiteethjy M lofiwheel E 452 enter into the-spacesv t `betweenithesuccessive*loops=oftheneedle thread" they portionscould`be made'separatelygaridjoined, 65?#3TH andiuniformlyseparater-anddraw apart the fabric portionsfiandttothernaximurn extent possible; thatfis',untilthe portions 29 and 30are yseparated byaa distance substantially equal toone-li'ali-o-frther-lengtlrof the thread of each loop arating4 hgerrsupporting'-construction,` which I*y T5? wheel 46fisysucl'r that-sucli"rsuccessive'teeth-'willi' andiltl may thereafterWorkM in ;the-holes\39 andl theworklis`sliown-wiitli theefabric portion 301andi its selvageLilltfriotyet` drawn apart from the i enter into successive spacesbetween the needle thread loops. Thus, the limbs 3Ia and 3Ib of one loopWill enter into and lie between two teeth 4l while the limbs of the nextsimilar loop, will enter into and lie in the next space between teeth41, and thus the teeth will fix the successive thread limbs Sla and 3Ibof one loop in appr priate position relative to those of the next loop,and the fabric portions 29 and 30 will be simultaneously appropriatelyspaced apart. It will be also understood that, as the selvages 29a and30a go towards and under the presser-foot 38 and as successive needlethread loops, the selvages 29a and 30a, are, as they pass under the toeof the presser-foot 38, folded back against the respective fabricportions 29 and 30. As the work thereupon progresses further under thepresser-foot, the needles ylll and '42, operating in the holes 39 and40, provide suitable lines of stitches 56 and 51, whereby the selvages2da and 38a are sewn back to the respective bodies of fabric portions 29and 3S, and the thus treated work is thereupon fed out from under theheel of the presserfoot 38, provided with the desired ornamentalstitched open work. A plan appearance of the stitched-back selvagesagainst the respective fabric portions will be observed in Fig. 2, tothe rear of the presser-foot 38 and a cross-sectional View of suchfabric, provided with my stitched ornamental open work, will be observedin Fig. 5.

In further connection with my double needle stitch machine, it will benoted that in Figs. 1 and 4, I show the manner ini'which the toothedwheel 4S is rotatably supported. Thus, it will be observed that I haveshown said Wheel rotatably carried by a tongue 6a which extends out froma plate 4Gb, which plate is adapted to be mounted on or slid into thegeneral plane of the'bed plate ofsaidmachine. I have shown the tongue46a with a bifurcated end 46c, having the tines of such end joinedadjacent the tips thereof by a pin 45d, which runs transversely of suchtines and the space lying therebetween, on which pin the said wheel 46is freely rotatably mounted,

y' I deem the structure which I have just described, for supporting therotatable wheel 46, as being preferable for attaining the purposedesired therefor. However, since it is conceivable that other suitablesupporting means for maintaining the wheel 45 in proper operatingposition might be found advantageous and suitable for such purpose, Idesire, of course, that my description of such construction shall beinterpreted as illustrative and not as in any sense limiting.

It, accordingly, will be understood from all of the foregoing that bythe employment of my invention, which I have-herein disclosed, fabricpieces may be joined by a highly ornamental stitched open work ofdesirable character.

From the foregoing, it will be obvious that I while I have described myinvention in connection with certain machine constructions, my inventionmight with equal advantage be employed with other constructions. Thus,my finger, the utilization of which results in slack stitching, might beembodied in different types of sewing machines; and the stitching backof fabric selvages may possibly be found to be advantageously carriedout by'a `plurality of operations on a single needle machine. Likewise,it is conceivable that other modifications and/or variations might befound desirable and/or advantageous.

Inasmuch, therefore, as many changes may be made in the aboveconstructions, and many apv the teeth 4l enter into successive spacesbetween parently widely and different embodiments within the` scope ofthe invention'may be made without departing from the'spirit land scopethereof, and inasmuch as my invention may reasonably be used for manypurposes,A it is intended that all matters hereinabove contained orshown in the accompanying drawing shall be interpreted as illustrativeand not as in any sense limiting.

What I seek to secure by and claim for United States Letters Patent is:

1. In a mechanism of the type described for stitching-back selvages Ytothe respective bodies of fabric portions joined by slack stitching, aselvage separating finger, means for holding each of the separatedselvages against the bodyof the fabricvportion of which it is part; arotatable stitch-separating toothed wheel disposed between said meansand said finger, means for stitching each such selvage to said body, andmeans for advancing the fabric portions successively to theaforementioned separating finger,

toothed wheel, holding means and stitching means.

2. In a mechanism of the type described for use on a'sewing machinehaving a needle and a bed plate, a plate adapted for securement to thesewing machine bed plate, an elongated tonguelike extension carriedthereby, said elongated extenison having a bifurcated end, a pin runningtransversely o-f the tines of said bifurcated end and carried therebyand a freely rotatable stitchseparating toothed wheel rotatably mountedon said pin between said tines, with the teeth of said wheel projectingthrough the plane of the bed plate'in advance of the needle.

3. In a sewing machine havinga work support, a presser foot, and a pairof laterally spaced reciprocable needles for forming parallel lines ofstitches in adjacent fabric:l portions, said presser foot comprising amain body portion having apertures for passage of said needlestherethrough, and an upturned toe portion having an elongated openingtherein, and a fabric-separating toothedl wheel supported by said worksupport for free rotation below said opening with the vteeth thereofmovable in said opening upon rotation thereof. v y

4. The structure recited in claim 3, characterized in that the mentionedpresser-foot has the toe thereof curved to aid in separating and foldingback fabric selvages against fabric bodiesr prior to stitching of suchselvages back to said bodies.

5. In a sewing machine for making ornamental stitched open work from twopieces of stitched fabric which are joined by a line of slack stitching,the combination of means for uniformly separating the fabric pieces tothe extent permitted by the line of slack stitching, said meansincluding a freely rotatable toothed wheeL'the successive teeth of whichare adapted to successive insertion between successive slack stitches,means for simultaneously folding over the selvage of each piece offabric against the body of the fabric thereof and means, forsimultaneously stitching each selvage to its body in separated positionand means for advancing the Work for successive treatment by each of theaforementioned meansv inthe order mentioned.

6, The structure recited in claim 5 characterized in that the means forfolding over the selvage of each piece of fabric against the body of thefabric thereo-f includes a presser-'foot which is so shaped as toprogressively fold over the selvage as the work is advanced towards the'stitch position. i i

7. In a sewing machine for making ornamental stitched open work from twopieces of fabric which are united by slack stitching, the combination ofmeans for advancing the work, a freely rotatable toothed wheel, the axisof rotation of which wheel extends transversely to the general directionof workadvance and lies substantially in the same general plane in whichworks the aforesaid advancing means and the teeth ofwhich wheel'areadapted, upon advancement of the work, to successively enter, betweenthe two pieces of fabric, into the successive spaces lying between theloose stitches to separate` the'fabric pieces and means for xedlyholding such fabric pieces in separated position.

part, and means, at the aforementioned stitching position, forsimultaneously stitching each such e selvage to its corresponding bodyportion.

12. `In a sewing machine ofthe type described for stitching backselvages to the respective bodiesof fabric work portions, which portionsare already joined byslack stitching, the combination of means uponwhich the bodies ofsuch Work portions may be arranged so that saidbodies lie in substantially the same general plane while the selvagesthereof upstand therefrom, means for advancing the work to and through astitch- 8, In a sewing machine for making ornamental stitched open workfrom two pieces of fabric which are united by slack stitching, thecombination of means upon which the body of each of the fabric piecesmay befarranged so that both bodies lie `in substantially the samegeneral plane and with the-selvages upstanding, means, including afreely rotatable toothed wheel, `for uniformly separating the fabricpieces to the stitches, means for folding, and for holding each i extentpermitted by the slack stitching, means for folding back the `selvage ofeach fabric porl tion against the body thereof, means for stitching eachselvage back to its `body portion and means for advancing the work,o,verthe rst mentioned means, successively to and through ing position,` atoothed stitch-separating wheel `so mountedwith respect to` the `firstmentioned means that, upon advance ofthe work, it mayy freely rotate inthe direction of work :advance with theiteeth thereof successivelyprojecting through the spaces lying between the successive stitcheswhich join-the work portions to uniformly equally `separate the fabricbetween of the selvages back in folded condition against the body of thefabric work portion of which it is a part, and means for stitching eachselvage to its corresponding body portion.

13.` Fabric selvage separating mechanism for use with a sewing machineincluding a presser bar having a presser foot carried therebyand a pairof needles reciprocable through openings in the presserfoct, saidseparating mechanism com-` prising a` rod-like element adjustablysupported by and extending therefrom perpendicular to the the positionof said wheel,' said folding means l and said stitching means, in theorder named.

9. In a sewing machine of the type described, a, plate overwhich twopieces of fabric united by slack stitches may be advanced for a furtherstitch-forming operation and a toothedvstitch- `separating wheel somounted with respect to said plate that it may freely rotate in thedirection of work advance `with its axis of rotation subthe teeththereof successively projecting through the spaces .lying between thesuccessive slack stitches in the work.

10. The structure recited in claim 9 characterized in that the stitchseparating toothed wheel is so proportioned that the space between suc-`sive teeth thereon will accommodate two threads and the teeth thereonbe adapted for insertion `between successive slack stitches.

11. In a serving machine of the type described for stitching backselvages` to the, respective presser bar and parallel to thelongitudinal center line of the presser foot to ;one side thereof, the

stantially in the plane of work advance and with bodies of fabric workportions, which` portions .i

are already joined by slack stitching. the combination of means uponwhich the bodies of such work `portions may be arranged` so that said`bodies lie in substantially thesamegeneral plane folding, and forholding each ofthe separated selvages` back `inrfolded condition againstthe body of the fabric work portion ofwhich it is a 1 while the selvagesthereof upstand therefrom,

rod-like `member being laterally `deflected and terminating` in avertically disposed separating finger having `its free active end inadvance of the presser foot and in the longitudinal center thereof, andmeans for Asecuring said rod-*like member in adjusted position forvarying the distance between said free active end and the presser foot.w

14. The structure recited in claim` 7 characterizedinthat the means forxedly holdingthe fabric pieces in separated position includes a presserfoot having a single solid central. curved` toe to fold andhold` theselvage of each`fabric piece back against the body thereof and` meansfor stitching each selvage to itscorresponding body portion' in suchposition.

15. Fabric selvage separating mechanism for use with a sewing machineincluding a presser bar having a presser foot carried thereby and a pairof needles reciprocable through openings in` the presser foot, saidseparating mechanism comprising means engageable with said presser barfor vertical adjustment thereon, a rod-like member adjustablyisupportedby and extending from said means perpendicular to the presser bar andparallel to-the longitudinal center line of the presser foot to one sidethereof,` the rod-like member being laterally deflected and terminatingin a vertically disposed separatingnger having its freeactive end inadvance of the presser foot and in the longitudinal center thereof, andmeans i for securing said rod-likemember in adjusted positionfor varyingthe distance between said free active end and the presser foot.

16. The structure recited in claim 15 characterized in that means areprovided `for limiting the closeness of approach of said separating ngerto said presser-foot bar. i

\ i ANTONIO 'ronnie-11

